Sunday, May 22, 2011

Flashback May 2009: Artoo Stands!

     I was extremely excited about approaching closer to the first milestone of the build. So far, I had the skins, frame, legs, center ankle, dome and radar eye. This was absolutely the minimal amount of parts needed to have a standing astromech that actually resembles one!

"The Gas Pipe System"

     The first step was to mount the legs to the frame which involved using a system developed by Mike Senna. This system is a tried and proven method which uses gas pipes that act as a support system much like the axle of a car, except that it is not subject to constant rotation. It's rather a clever and simple concept where gas pipes run horizontally through holes on both right and left uprights of the frame and the ends of each pipe are attached to the hubs of each leg using a pipe flange. To prevent the pipes from rotating, a U-bolt with a round bend is used to clamp it down. The U-bolt is mounted on a heavy duty steel angle bar that runs vertically with the frame. The bottom end of this bar is anchored to another angle bar used to hold the center ankle to the base plate of the frame. Pretty simple right?

     From what I have figured, droids with wooden frames utilizing this clever design have three significant advantages over those droids with its legs bolted directly to the frame:

1. Reduces the stresses from locomotion.  For a droids with their legs bolted to the frame, when propelled forwards or backwards, and being that the motors used for locomotion are at the bottom of the legs, the torque will produce a large amount of stress on the hub-to-body joint. While I cannot speak for those who have their legs bolted directly to the frame, whether there has been a history of weakened or damaged frames or not, I will just er on the side of caution and use the gas pipe system.

2.  Acts as a frame within a frame. Rather than have the wooden frame act as the main support structure of the entire droid, the legs-gas pipe-ankle combination, acts together to forms an internal frame, independent of the wooden frame. This means that as more and more stuff is added to the droid, the added weight will bear stress on the gas pipe system (which now serves as the main support structure), and not on the wooden frame. This system also forms strong foundation to keep the legs perfectly parallel with the body and there is zero or minimal inward or outward flex in the lateral direction.

3. Can be used as a safety lift point during transport.  Most fully completed droids with wooden frames and have basic functions will weigh over 100 pounds. A fully assembled droid with the dome off, can be safely lifted without the risk of damaging costly parts, especially the greeblies, when you use the gas pipe as a lifting point.


     The gas pipe system utilizes two black gas pipes (one 1" and one 3/4".) and two electrical conduit flanges (one 1" and one 3.4").

 
  
     The purpose for the two sizes of pipe is for the smaller one to slide into the the larger one and with careful selection, should slide together smoothly. This is a convenience for whenever you needed to detach the legs from the body, all you had to do was remove a few bolts and slide the legs apart.

     Finding a pair of gas pipes where the smaller one would fit inside the bigger one was a REAL CHALLENGE. Not all pipes are made the same because the manufacturing process produces a thin internal bead, that runs across its entire length, that can vary in size. The bigger the bead size the more obtrusive it is, preventing the smaller pipe from sliding into it. I remember having gone thru the supplies of one Lowe's and two Home Depot stores until I found the perfect 1" pipe with a less obtrusive bead (at the Home Depot). I can recall a few instances where customers would give me a  funny "what the hell are you doing?" look while I exhausted an entire shelf of dirty black gas pipes, trying to fit one into another.

     Here's how the gas pipes look with the smaller one inserted into the larger one. You can see from the pic below how it resembles an axle for an automobile.


     In order to slip the pipes thru the frame, holes big enough for the 1" pipe had to be drilled on each side of the frame, more particularly, the lateral plates. But before that was even possible, the skins had to be attached, which will allow the the hubs to be aligned correctly so that a mark can be made to cut the holes.

     The skins were temporarily attached using masking tape and then marks were made which aligned with the dead center of the "leg sockets" of the skins.

     The pipe was fitted and checked for squareness against the frame. So far, so good...



     The center ankle angle bar mounts also make part of the gas pipe system. A heavy duty steel angle, also purchased from the Home Depot, was cut to size, and two mounting holes were drilled. The wooden center ankle was then bolted to it and as one unit, it was then aligned and finally bolted to the base plate.



     The 1" flange was permanently fixed on the left leg, and the 3/4" flange fixed on right. The pipes were temporarily screwed on tightly to the flanges. I sat Artoo's body on top and between two milk crates which allowed the center ankle to clear the floor. With the skins still taped to the frame, the left leg (1" pipe) was inserted thru the hole of the left plate and out thru the hole on the right. The right leg (3/4" pipe) was then inserted 1" pipe thru the right side.

     Studying reference movie stills of A New Hope, I chose to have a shoulder-to-body gap of 1/8", which of course, is my guesstimate. To help with alignment, I wedged a spacer ( a piece of scrap 0.125" styrene)  between the shoulders and the body of both sides. Each pipe was then checked for the correct length, which only had to be long enough to clear both holes, but not so long that it would cause the other leg to protrude too far out.

Saturday, May 14, 2011

Flashback May 2009: Choosing a Dome Bearing

     Merriam-Webster's Dictionary defines a Lazy Susan a revolving tray used for serving food, condiments, or relishes. It's one of those gizmo's that allow easy access to that dish of Kung Pao Chicken, located on the other side of the table, that you've been impatiently waiting for. Well, the R2 Builders Club's  preferred method for rotating domes is very similar to the Chinese restaurant thingamabob, except instead of a mounted platform used to transport that dish of Kung Pao Chicken, it's a Artoo's head.

Dome Rotation Basics

     The club's preferred method of dome rotation has been proven to be efficient, reliable and simplistic: A specially selected lazy susan bearing, with a diameter that is slightly smaller than the diameter of Artoo's dome (< 18"), is mounted to the frame. Here is a picture of the ABS Woodcraft bearing mounted to my frame:

<click image to enlarge>
     More specifically, the stationary or non-rotating portion of the lazy susan is bolted to the top plate of the frame. On the rotating portion of the lazy susan,the threaded ends of four tall #10 screws are inserted underneath and upward through custom drilled holes are secured in place with nuts. These screws that stick upwards serve as an alignment pins when dome ring and support ring are stacked on top of the bearing. Just picture a 3 layer cake, with the lazy susan bearing as the bottom, the dome ring as the middle, and the support ring as the top layer of the "cake." Washers are used as spacers between the bearing and the dome ring to adjust the dome height just enough so the dome ring does not rub against the body. Mounted on the frame is a motorized wheel that contacts the surface of the  inner side of the bearing and when the wheel turns, the bearing and the dome rotate in unison. (this covered more in detail in another discussion) Easy right?

Choosing a Lazy Susan

     Picking out a bearing was pretty straight forward as there were only two options at the time: Woodcraft or the gold standard, Rockler. This lazy susan was the second item purchased for the project and it is was not cheap! Trying to save some money, instead of going with the preferred aluminum Rockler bearing, I opted to go with the PVC version from Woodcraft. Not only was it was seven bucks cheaper, there were no shipping charges since there was a Woodcraft store local to me, which I was able to pick up.  Here's how the two compared, based on the advertised descriptions:


Brand            Material               Size                 Weight Capacity                Price

Woodcraft      PVC                   17 5/16"              220lbs                            $54.99

Rockler          Aluminum           17 1/2"                330lbs                            $61.99

     According to these specs, the Woodcraft bearing seemed plenty adequate to support a light weight styrene dome.

Installation

 

Friday, May 13, 2011

Flashback March 2009: Creating the Radar Eye

     A month before building the frame, I wanted to kick off Project Astromech with a little scratch built piece, which also happened to be my very first built part: the Radar Eye. Being very excited, I downloaded a cutting template PDF from the tutorial section of Astromech.net and got right to work.

     The first version was made out of aluminum flashing, used for roofing, that you can get from your local home store. I simply used heavy duty scissors to cut out the pieces and then hot glued them together. I wasn't to thrilled about the craftsmanship because the flashing was a bit too thin and flimsy causing the pieces to warp. Moreover, hand cutting it with a pair of shears did not exactly yield the straightest cuts. ...sigh.



     The second version was created out of 0.040" styrene. Using my Husky heavy duty utility knife, straight edge and compass, the cuts were more controlled. The result gave way to much more cleaner pieces than the ones from the aluminum version. Because I wanted a fast setting glue, I also used a hot glue gun to attach the pieces together.

     The radar eyes were painted using the basic Krider formula:  one coat Rust-Oleum White primer > two coats Dupli-Color MetalCast Anodized Blue >  two coats Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear.

     The radar eye lens was cut out from the convexed portion of a 2 liter soda bottle. The back of the lens was then spray painted black and then taped onto the radar eye.


     The results looked great, but being that the eyes were hollow, they were very fragile. One wrong bump into it will instantly destroy it. Filling the void with some instant foam from a can might have helped but there was still no solid surface to mount it to the dome. Another builder suggested pouring in resin filler but I thought it just wasn't cost effective. I finally decided to to order a council approved resin version from one of the group's part suppliers at a later date and use my scratch built one as a mock up for the mean time. Note the extreme warpage of the aluminum version in the picture below.


     A year later, I obtained this fantastic resin version from Azman. Since the piece was formed with the use of a vaccuum chamber, which helps reduce the appearance of air bubbles, there was no need to fill and refinish it. It was also painted using the Krider formula and aluminum tape was used for the details. The soda bottle lens was also used.  Because synthetic resin was solid throughout, it provided a secure foundation for mounting on the dome.


Installation was straight forward. The eye was held in the desired position and then a pencil was used to trace its outline on the dome. Using a 5/64" drill bit, two pilot holes were drilled strategically within the boundaries of the pencil outline. The radar eye was then taped to the dome in the same desired position and then the back of it was pencil marked using thru pilot holes. Using the marks, holes were drilled wide enough to accept #10 screws. The pilot holes on the dome were also widened to accept the new screws. The red arrows in the pic below indicate the marked holes.


So how does it look?, you might ask. Well, no peeking yet. Not until I've painted and mounted the dome panels. Stay tuned.

Next up: Choosing a Dome Bearing